Tourist for a day

On our second day in Axum, prior to catching our flight back to Addis, we toured some of the UNESCO heritage site.  I'd like to say it was impressive but actually not so much. The city is the site of an ancient kingdom which had its height in 4th AD.  Tall stelae (ancient tombs stones), empty tombs and palace ruins, a stone slab with writing in Greek and two ancient languages (think Rosetta Stone).  I opted to not go into the church where the Ark of the Covenant is supposedly kept.  They parade around a replica before mass and only one person is allowed into the inner sanctum where the real one is said to be kept.

A highlight from both days was having lunch at a local restaurant of good Ethiopian food finished off by the customary coffee ceremony.  They roast the beans, grind them, heat the water and brew it in front of you a few demitasses at a time.  The Ethiopian coffee is good but it is strong.  A couple ounces is all you need.  I had a glass in Addis at 4p and didn't fall asleep until 2a - I blame the coffee not jet lag.

Field visits in Tigray

Without incident but enduring a middle seat on a 13 hour flight, I landed in Addis.  I hadn't received instruction on being picked-up and didn't see anyone standing with my name on a sign.  Turns out, due to security, they no longer allow drivers and taxi touts to approach the arrival hall.  It makes for a very calm introduction to the country.  A legitimate looking lady walked me to the taxi stand, was familiar with my destination and told me how much is would cost.  And 15 minutes later I arrived safe and sound.

Before dawn the next morning, my team convened to head back to the airport to board our short flight up north to Axum.  We drove out to a small rural village about an hour outside of town.  It is a very dry landscape with giant aloe type plants, and a variety of cacti.  There is a rainy season, but it is not now, so all the creek beds were dry.

We visited a household compound consisting of three huts, chickens and livestock.  We were there to learn about poultry keeping of the small holder farmer.  The women control the care and maintenance of the birds including marketing and spending the money how they wish - at least in this village.  We also met with a make-shift focus group to ask them question about poultry production, gender norms, and chicken and egg consumption.