This morning I paid an overdue visit to Mao. It had been on my list of things to do so this Sunday morning, I got up early, subwayed over to the south end of Tiananmen Square and joined the throng. (The photo I took last month looking towards Mao's Mausoleum at the southern end of Tiananmen Square.) It is quite a procedure but that is part of the experience. Since bags and cameras are not allowed, I arrived with money, passport and my apartment keys. They let one large group go at a time, so you stand in line waiting for your turn. Following a yellow-lined path, you proceed to the security check point and through a metal detector. Then you line up in four rows until everyone is together again. Our mass group was led up the front of the mausoleum into the foyer where there is a white statue of Mao sitting amid dozens of plants. At this point people can place fake tulips they purchased prior to entry in front of Mao (the flowers are periodically gathered up to be repurchased by future visitors). In the next room, surrounded by a glass wall, is the glass casket holding the preserved Mao. I had read online about his "glowing" head. And with a light aimed at his waxy face, it does have a yellowy glow. You have about 10 seconds to get your fill of Mao as the group files past and enters the last room - the souvenir shop. And that's it. The amount of time you spend in the mausoleum is about 30 seconds. And it's free.
As I stood outside again, it was a poignant moment. Not because of Mao but because I realized that this was the last time I would be in the heart of Beijing before returning home. It was strangely a sad realization.
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