Lower Mustang Valley

I write from Cafe Applebee's in Kagbeni, Mustang.  There probably won't be any legal issues with the name considering down the street is Yak donald's.  This may be a very rustic village of ~500, but there is entrepreneurship.  This is apple country ergo the naming of this cafe (which has internet when the cell phone tower works), and I've been promised we get to try local apple brandy at our next stop.

Because we have been sans internet there are a few days to catch up on.  Friday morning we boarded a small prop plane for the 30 minute flight to Pokhara. Our bikes were trucked 20 hrs to make the bumpy 400km drive.  Pokhara is lower and warmer than Kathmandu with a picturesque lake in the middle surrounded by the snowcapped Himalayas. It was a day off so the group scattered. We opted to be paddled across the lake and hike up to the World Peace Stupa with amazing views. The hike down was aided by a 13 yr old boy who found us wandering. Apparently he and his friends earn good tips guiding tourists up and down the forest paths.  A very charming kid, he definitely earned his tip.

Saturday early we caught an even tinier 14 seater plane to Jomsom.  And then we really felt like we had arrived. A very frontier type town where trekkers come for the Annapurna circuit.  From there we road what for me has been the most challenging day.  The altitude is no joke.  Between the riverbed rocks, the wind, and lack of oxygen, we had a difficult climb to the village of Pallayak.  Very remote with 200 people we had a tea break on the roof of a local farmers house.  The other highlight was the suspension bridge we crossed twice. Our ride ended at our guesthouse in Kagbeni.

Sunday we were faced with a 1000m climb up to the town of Muktinath where we had lunch. After yesterday's experience I went slowly, pushed my bike a lot and the  guides had arranged for one of them to take my bike if needed which happened twice.  On the way back I took the option of an easier route while the others chose the more challenging path.

On one last note, as warned, sleeping the first night was challenging. We both had trouble breathing and even after 10 hrs of sleep felt horrible in the morning. Fortunately the next night was much better.

Top of climb at Muktinath

Prayer wheels in Kagbeni

View up Mustang Valley from Kagbeni